Letter from the Editor

FRAMLINGHAM, UK — Since my bicycle was fitted with the low-tech navigation screen (plastic over the map), my son followed me throughout the cycling trip.
On the first day, he made a comment that still leaves me unsure how to answer. “Dad, your calves look like a pair of honey-baked hams.” I’ll take it as a compliment.
We stayed Friday night at the Crown Hotel, a traditional coach house built in 1553. The building allowed horses and carriages to pass through the hotel from the back courtyard. Our bikes were parked in an old horse shed. First, we toured the Shawsgate Vineyard and tasted the dry, white wines English vintners are known for.
Friday night, we dined on lamb and chicken at the Lemon Tree Restaurant near the hotel. Local merchants set up a market outside the hotel early Saturday. Bread, fruits and fish moved quickly.
After breakfast, we surveyed the Framlingham Castle. It was once a great seat of English baronial power. Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, had it built in 1190. It has a curtain with 13 integral towers and was considered architecturally significant. King John took the tower in the siege of 1216. Edward VI granted the castle to his half sister, Mary Tudor. She was living here when she became Queen Mary in 1553. Nearby is the Church of St. Michael Framlingham containing the tomb of Henry Fitzroy, an illegitimate son of King Henry VIII.
Somewhere between Peasenhall and Bramfield, we took an incorrect turn. (Blame the sunglasses which are not my needed regular bi-focals). Two motorists stopped to help and got us back to the prescribed route. British drivers seem more tolerant of cyclists. They are patient and most wave as they pass you.
We picked the longer route and headed north from Uggeshall to Covehite. At Wrentham, we stopped for a late lunch at Stephanie’s Country Kitchen. Soon after we found an old church that was partially dismantled in 1672 after the town had decayed. The massive tower was preserved as a sea mark. The new church was built within the ruins and still holds Sunday services.
At Covehithe, we begin to smell the salt air. Breezes were stronger. Sea gulls nested in the plowed fields. Pigs, each with their own living hut, were plentiful. Our route was muddy from the morning showers which missed us by a few hours.
We reached Southwold at mid-afternoon. After checking into the Swan Hotel and resting, we tried the local brew at the Red Lion pub, near the seawall and Gunner’s Hill. Southwold is the home to the Adnams & Co brewing company and the pubs push their products.
The town is the most tourist-heavy we’ve seen along the trip. Shopping seems to be the main pastime. It is an old seaside town that is bordered on the east by the North Sea, the River Bluth to the south and Buss Creek to the north. It’s nearly surrounded by water. A large green area in town marks the 1659 fire that destroyed most of the buildings. The 2002 film, “Iris” was filmed here with Kate Winslet, Judi Dench and Jim Broadbent.
None of them were spotted in the Red Lion today.

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